Hi there!
Laos is going through a lot of changes and if you’re here for riding your bicycle, it’s good to know the current road and lodging situation.
I’ve ridden (so far) Vientiane to Luang Prabang and I want to tell you, what you can expect.
Vientiane – Nam Ngum – Thalat – Phon Hong (Route Nr.10): Highly recommended! The road is good and 25km out of the capital it’s getting peaceful. Mostly flat, a hilly section towards the end of the stage (no steep climbs, nothing serious to talk about). After 90km you’ll come to an intersection by a river. To the right you get to the dam and the lake (4km) where you can find a resort that clings to the hillside. Be warned: To get to the lake, you have to get over a short but steep hill. Nice view over the lake, decent rooms (a bit old and moldy), but too expensive (150’000 Kip, including discount for cyclists). WiFi and breakfast for free.
If you turn left at the intersection towards Thalat, you will pass very soon a guesthouse on the right side. Looked pretty new and nice. Next time I would rather stay here than on the lake (there are some very noisy boats on the lake!).
In Thalat (about 100km from Vientiane) are several places for accommodation to find. At the crossing in Thalat (next to the new market) you have to turn left. Don’t be confused, the road leads to the south for a couple of kilometres and will merge into Nr. 13 in Phon Hong.
Phon Hong – Vang Vieng (Route Nr. 13). The road between these towns used to be very nice! Currently it is a terrible section, a big mess and not suitable for a joyful ride on a bicycle. The road (if you call it so) is in a very bad shape! Every hundred meters is a part of asphalt missing, remaining only sand, stones, gravel and potholes. And that goes on for 80 kilometres! Don’t do it by bike! Take a lift to Vang Vieng! Hop on a bus or ask one of the pick up drivers. If you still want to ride it, bring a dust mask (face mask?). You will be covered in red powder from all the (fast) passing vehicles.
A high range of accommodation in Vang Vieng. It’s a dreadful place, a disgrace for any conscious tourist, but it has a good infrastructure for an exhausted cyclist.
10km after VV the road becomes very nice (according to Lao standard – it’s always a bit bumpy and potholes are part of every road in this country). One minor climb on the way to Kasi (58km). I saw at least one guesthouse on the way into Kasi. Kasi itself has two guesthouses. Many restaurants along the main road, some offers a menu in English.
One hour riding out of Kasi (easy climb for about 13km) you will come to a hot spring with a pool where you’ll find huts and a restaurant. It looks like a nice alternative to Kasi and it will break the climb up to Phou Khoun. VV to “Hot Springs” = approx. 72km
Then the real climbing starts! Long, but never steep! It’s easy to find your pace! Enjoy the scenery! Not much traffic. But also no food stalls. Bring enough water!
Until now, everyone has mentioned only the old and basic guesthouse in Phou Khoun. But on the way in, about 3km before the village, there are two “new” guesthouses. I stayed in the first one. Nice spacious rooms with hot water, a beautiful garden with view over the mountains and a good restaurant with a decent menu in English. Everything you need! I was happy there!
Kasi – Phou Khoun = 45km, mainly uphill.
VV – Phou Khoun = 100km/1750 meters climbing.
Phou Khoun to Kiu Ka Cham: 50km, about 1000 meter climbing. Steady up and down. Both villages are situated at an altitude of approx. 1400 meters. Very beautiful scenery! Good road. A highlight on this journey! Enjoy!
Kiu Ka Cham offers two guesthouses, both very basic. I didn’t stay there (this time, I stayed there several years ago and I didn’t like it). There are a few restaurants with a menu you will be able to read.
After Kiu Ka Cham a short climb (100m up) brings you to a long descent. 20km and 1000 meter in altitude just downhill! Check your brakes and then enjoy the thrill. You will hit the bottom on an elevation of about 500 meters. Crossing a bridge and the next climb starts already. Once more, a very nice ascent. Not steep at all! You have to climb for 15km and 700 meters in altitude. On top (approx. 1200 meter) you will reach the last long descent. Again: Check the brakes and fly towards Luang Prabang. 20km and 800 meters in altitude down to the valley that runs to LPB. 25km before LPB is a guesthouse (by the waterfall). If you don’t want to ride all the way to LPB, you can stay here. But let’s face it. 25km more and you will get all the comforts of a beautiful city, with all its temptations! I couldn’t resist! And it was worth doing this effort! But be warned again: there is a minor climb halfway to LPB (100m up!) Nothing serious, but after a long day on the saddle it could sucks you empty. So save a bit of energy, don’t be too enthusiastic for the last part. The last 10km into LPB are easy pedalling, it’s like the froth on your cappuccino! Enjoy every sip! And welcome to Luang Prabang!
So far, I don’t know much about the road heading from LPB towards China. I just heard, that the section between Pak Mong and Oudomxay is in a very bad condition, too. I probably will take a bus for this part or a boat from Nong Kiaw to Muang Khoua. I will let you know about it!
I hope this description is useful to you! Take care! Michael
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